Using Motion! :)

So often photographers talk about having "tack sharp" images. I'm definetly a big fan of that, I have pretty high standards for what is acceptable in terms of sharpness.

There are times though, when it's great to use motion blur (and NOT the kind you add in Photoshop!) to enhance photographs. It gives photos a bit of life to them.

Here's a few examples....

In these images, I slowed the shutter way down (from 1/30th to 1/10th of a second) and then had the subjects stand still while I let the enviroment around them move, in this case the water on the beach or the cars in the tunnel. Often if you're shooting in daylight you'll need to drop your ISO speed as low as it'll go (50 or 100) and close down your aperture a bit so that you don't overexpose your image using such a long shutter speed.

In these examples the subjects were the actual object of motion. Again, I slowed my shutter speed down (exactly how slow depends on how fast the subject is moving).

These images involve a bit more complicated technique called "dragging the shutter." For this, you slow the shutter speed down to about 1/10th of a second or so and then use an on camera flash to stop the motion. The way that this works is your flash "freezes" whatever it hits (or what is directly in front of it), and then the motion effect is gathered from the ambient light coming in during your long exposure. I often purposefully move or shake the camera right when I click the shutter speed to get the moving lights. Make sure you have your camera set on manual for this! :)

Ask me questions in the comments section if you want further explanation on something! :)

Comments

[David Jay]

Brilliant shots! Love'em!

[Deyl]

im dizzy from the mvmt :)

love em!

[Jeff Youngren]

Awesome shots! How do you ensure that your flash doesn't overpower the shot? I've tried this before, and I typically end up with sort of washed out images...

[Chris Humphreys]

Hey Jeff!

First of all, I always manually set my flash's power output. I usually leave it around 1/8th power (I'm using the Canon EX 550, but it's probably close to the same on the 580). That helps you control how much flash ouput you have.

Also, I use a stophen omni bounce diffuser, and keep my flash pointed straight up the whole time. If you point it down too far you might get a bit too much light on your subjects.

From there, if you're getting washed out images, you might have to close your aperture down a little bit depending on how bright the room is. I'm usually at about ISO 800 at somwehere between 1/8th to 1-15th of a second shutter speed, usually at f2.8. Use those settings as a starting point and you should be able to go from there.

Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

[Luke Walker]

you are the man chris, keep up the great work!

[Patricia Stein]

Thanks Chris!
Great work!
I've been going crazy trying to figure out how other photographers do the effects you explained.
Thanks for sharing this!
I'm going practice "dragging the shutter" today!
♥

[Chris Humphreys]

Hi Patricia! :)

Awesome! I'm glad I could help! Check back and I'll post more tips on other subjects.

[Dan Watkins]

Great post musicman!! ;)

[megan]

sweet 4Runner:)

(except that somebody put a sparkle on the car with the streamers.. brilliant)

p.s. awesome blog! thanks for the pic:)

[Damion Hamilton]

Chris,
This is awesome, I have been puzzled just as Jeff and Patricia on these same techniques. Thank you very much not only for the explanation, but the technical data and sample images. Very nice of you to take the time to share this with us!
Blessings,
Damion

[Paul Eaton]

Awesome Chris! Nice to find another slow shutter addict.

[Владимир]

Фото просто супер!!!
М ы из Раши..:)

[Roy Groat]

Chris,

First of all, wow! I now have a new mentor. I don't know that I will ever be able to even come close to your level but I am certainly going to try. Your artwork is just awesome.

Ok, as a professional photographer in Oklahoma, I am still struggling with including or selling my digital negs. I have been including them in packages of the past but am looking at no longer including them as I have no control over what lab the client takes the images to. If the lab is lousy, and most in Oklahoma are, I get the blame for brand x lab's machine being 12 points positive on magenta.

You may have addressed this in the past, but I would sure love your input.

Thank you!